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Dumps cashout method(Most awesome concept of cashout)2022

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DUMPS:

The data encoded on a credit/debit card's magnetic stripe is referred to as a dump.
There are two tracks available.
no city, no state, no address, nothing.
only two lines of integers or symbols.
Track 1 is more helpful because it displays the name of the cardholder.
If the name is distinctive, you can use Whitepage to identify the person's zip, which is useful.
In the event that you don't purchase your Credit Card dumps from us, you might only receive Track 2.
However, if you are knowledgeable and sophisticated, you will be able to read the instructions and guides and create a genuine, functional Track 1 from Track 2.

Although you will receive the valid PIN along with your dump (in our shop, you get track 1 + track 2 + PIN Credit card dumps), you will need both Track 1 + Track 2 to write a dump on a Credit card that can be used in both ways, i.e. swipe and EMV.
Here is an illustration of what you would receive if you purchased a dump that included both.

Track 1 and Track 2. TRACK 1: SMITH/JOHN 2307101000000000000000497000000.

TRACK 2: 4854240000439134=23071010497000000000
Once more, if you only receive track 2, you must create track 1. Take the following dump as an example, which just includes Track 2: 4888603170607238=23051011203191805191

It is always Track 2 when an equal sign (=) is present in a Track. The Credit Card dumps number must be taken from Track 2 (everything before the equals sign in this case), which is

. 4888603170607238\s.

. The number should now have the letter "B" before it.
. B4888603170607238\s.
. Then enter the cardholder name that YOU want to appear on the receipt or card.
B4888603170607238\s.
. ^Smith/John^
(First name last/Last name)
. After that, add the expiration date and service code (in this example, the service code is a three-digit number with the format YYMM2305, so add 1505101):
. Smith/John, B4888603170607238,
. 2305101

. After the service code, now add ten zeros: 230510100000000001203191805191.

Then multiply that result by six (six) zeros.
00000.

Congrats!
Just now, you created Track 1 utilising Track 2.
Track 1: B4888603170607238, Smith/John, 23051010000000000, 1203191805191000, is your final version.

PLASTIC:
Many plastic manufacturers create white cards that are designed to match your dump by embossing the desired name and the dump's numbers onto a blank piece of paper (not-embossed card).
The quality of plastics is surprising, and most cashiers can't tell a fake from a real one (unless you have really low quality plastic or the cashier is deep into this). Plastics are a lot more trustworthy even if you can encode any old card, so they are not strictly necessary. This can also be a waste of money if your dumps die quickly since they came from a dubious source.

101/201 DUMPS:
What distinguishes credit card dumps 101 from 201? Well, it's really quite straightforward: 101 is swipe alone, and 201 is chip. How are you going to pass a 201 chipped card without knowing the pin, you're going to wonder immediately. There are locations for such, particularly POS devices that swipe 201s rather than inserting them.
You will need to locate locations on your own or simply purchase high-quality, functional dumps from us.

Okay, now that you are familiar with the three phrases we used above and will continue to use throughout the book, let's get to the fun part.
There are numerous approaches to in-store carding, but in essence it is as follows:
striking it at random.
Secret carding.

HITTING IT RANDOM:
The possibilities are endless if you possess an embosser.

Because your card numbers match your track, which is crucial because certain POS systems have digit verification—more on that later on down below—you can pretty much go everywhere.
If you are re-encoding older cards and your last four do not match, you have two choices.
Option A) You can either purchase it from us and provide the final four numbers that we need in order to provide you with the dump that you can use both with your own information and independently.

OR ELSE:
Option B) You must ensure that the POS system at the store you intend to rob does not request the card's final four digits. Trial and error is involved. In most US locations, verification is not available until you reach a specified cash level.

INSIDER CARDING:
The safest course of action is this.
To pass cards, you will need a connection who works within the store.
Thus, matching plastic is not required in this situation, and typically, you can get away with a lot without coming off as suspicious.
To increase your funds and purchase equipment for random hitting, we advise you to do this (or affording strikers).
Why you should read this: POS Types.
There are numerous POS systems, and many of them differ from one another.
You'll need to be aware of which are simple to swipe and which are a little trickier.
Again, certain POS systems will request the final four digits of the card number, therefore it is essential that the numbers match for these.
Even with an insider, they need to enter the matching numbers for the transaction to be successful (you can write them on a piece of paper and let him enter those digits though).
Let's utilise the POS system from Best Buy as an example. Nothing can be purchased at Best Buy without the computer asking for the final four numbers first. This is how most stores operate. The computer will ask the cashier to enter the last four digits when paying with a credit card. After that, the cashier will request to see the card and check it. Make up an excuse, such as, "Oh, honestly, I forgot I wanted to pay for this with cash," if you do not have the last four embossed and you are in a location that requires last four verification. Take out some money and then complain that you lack it. What ATM is the nearest one?
The cashier won't be able to enter the last four and have it indicate "DOES NOT MATCH.", which might start a shitstorm.
A young cashier will probably just respond, "Wow, unusual, I have never seen that before," and hand the card back to you if you went ahead and presented it while acting foolish.
However, a seasoned, intelligent cashier will call your bluff and try to steal the card if you have one.
Because it is Walmart after all, we have discovered that there is no verification at all at Walmart.

The receipt, which will display the actual encoded last 4, will allow them to call your bluff even if your last four numbers do not match.
This only occurs if they want to test you and you appear to be really shady.
The majority will only give you your receipt and wish you a pleasant day.

You must determine which stores require the last four and which do not. Before even swiping the card, other POS systems will require the CVV2 (3 security numbers on the back or 4 for Amex). Keep in mind that because the CVV is encrypted in Track2 and difficult to decrypt, dumps purchased online do not contain it (different algorithm for every bank).Therefore, you must scan the dumps, check them yourself, and make a note of them if you want cvv2 matching. Large stores typically carry this. There are POS systems as well that don't allow you to enter cards with chips. When the bins or countries you want are out of 101s and you're stuck with 201s, it's a smart idea to retain these POSs in your book so you can hit them with them. They don't need to input or use a pin, just swipe the chipped card.

DECLINED/HOLD-CALL:
Don't be alarmed; it happens to a lot of people at random.
DECLINE: This suggests there is a problem with the card, but it is not necessarily stolen, thus they are unsure of the issue.
Simply say that you'll call the bank and then leave.
There won't be any pursuit.
Most likely, your card is simply dead.
Make a fresh one at home and continue with your day after that.
HOLD-CALL:
This is where things start to get dicey since the cashier will have to hold the card while calling the bank.
Tell them you'll call the bank later because you're in a hurry, but retain the card nonetheless.
This indicates that there is unquestionably a problem with your card.
 
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